Balkans Reflections

I sit faced with the task of enumerating my reflections upon the time we spent in Croatia, Bosnia, and Serbia last month. As I have enthusiastically shared stories and lessons from the Balkans with my friends and family here at home, I have undoubtedly had the content and time needed for proper reflection. And yet, when the experience at hand is as multi-faceted as what we did (outdoor-adventuring and travelling with a group of 20 college students in three foreign countries), it is difficult to make sense of a mellifluous “final reflection” that resonates above the noise of our trip. There is a part of me that hesitates and has trouble locating what about me, if any, has changed. Should I be changed from what I thought, saw, and did? It would, perhaps, suffice (or, be obvious) to say that the changes that occurred in me are consequences of my new experiences—which are now memories. Consequently, perhaps a good place for me to start would be some of the strongest memories I will bring moving forward from this trip.

I won’t forget the sinking feeling of losing one’s luggage for the first time. I also won’t forget the positivity and support that my fellow travelers displayed in my inconvenience.

I won’t forget the lovely group of rock-climbing socialites with whom we shared a campsite. “There is no respect in the Balkans.” For the record, I went up to them the next morning, and they were (already inebriated and) really nice to me. They offered me beer when I told them my birthday was coming up.

I won’t forget the trek up to “Bull-jima”, and the euphoria of having reached the pass to our shelter.

I won’t forget the beautiful scenery that surrounded us as we kayaked from/around Skradin, Sibenik, and Prvic Luka. I most certainly won’t forget the wonderful food and hospitality we received on our island paradise of Hotel Maestro.

I won’t forget Livno and the young people who felt trapped by a stagnant economy in a small town. I also won’t forget how strikingly beautiful the town’s natural environment and cultural diversity was.

I won’t forget Sarajevo and the synagogue, mosque, cathedral, and church that we visited. I won’t forget the recent bloodshed that weighed heavily on the people, the town, and its culture. I won’t forget the shock, horror, and despair I felt listening to the testimonials from those affected by the Srebrenica massacre. I won’t forget the fact that there is nothing humane about war and that even in areas of great ethnic tension and disparity, a mutual hatred for violence can be a strong preserver of peace.

I won’t forget the hours we spent in Belegrade. The late all-nighter we spent all hanging out in the hostel was an undoubtedly appropriate way to conclude the social dynamic of our trip. Which, perhaps most of all, leads me to how I won’t forget what an enjoyable group of students the ASK Balkans crew was. I enjoyed the presence of each and every student, and we were fortunate enough to be provided the time and environs for genuine yet varied interaction that cultivates bonds.

I could not be more thankful for those that made this trip happen. The adults that accompanied us young-adults were fine leaders, resources, and travel companions. Pursuing a Tech education with the President’s Scholarship has continued to prove itself to be one of the smartest choices I have ever made, and I most certainly will not forget what it, the Stamps Scholarship, the Fleet Scholarship, and the ASK Program has done for me during my time here at Tech.

Allie's ASK Balkans Reflection

"Well, whad'dya learn?" my dad asks, "Didya answer y'all's question?" At my silence, he continues, "Then whad'dya go to the Balkans for?!" What DID I go to the Balkans for? Since our return, I've been struggling to find a way to neatly close out the trip in my mind: to tuck it away deep inside the recesses of my memory, pull out a couple "lessons learned", slap some pictures up on Facebook to satiate my curious friends, and call it a day. For whatever reason, I cannot compartmentalize this past month of experiences into a compact little mental bundle, or an encompassing blog post, as comfortably as I would like to. Maybe it is because this trip was so different from my past experiences, because this time, when I flew home, I did so without having left new trenches to lay a pipeline in a few months, without having collected baseline water quality data, or without having received grades that validated my existence for the last couple of months. Maybe it is because this trip was not, for once, about me changing a place, but about a place changing me.

From the moment we first choked out of the rental van parking lot at the Zagreb airport to the day we finally infiltrated a heavily flooded Belgrade and all the times in between, our group has been through what some would consider a lifetime of experiences in just a few short weeks. I'll never forget what it felt like to summit my first official mountain in Paklenica National Park, and to look out over the vast, unwieldy ocean as it was framed by rocky peaks. I'll never forget the most edifying taste of delectably fresh seafood after hours of heavy paddling and three days of straight Mountain Houses. I'll never forget walking through the modern-day equivalent of a ghost town in Livno, and trying to contemplate all of the events that must have made it this way. I'll never forget, especially as a civil engineer having just completed a ~145 page report on best stormwater management practices, what it was like to live out a 100-year storm event, and to see just the degree to which the full and merciless force of Mother Nature can lash out.

But most importantly, I'll never forget you. Whether "you" are the director of the program that gave me the chance of a lifetime, not just in this trip, but in this scholarship program, or the one spouting off deep, religious musings on a steep trail. Whether "you" are the professor who forced me to challenge the very nature of my thoughts, and to consider the rest of the story, the WHOLE story, or the one who cheered me up after a very long, trying, and sobering day. Whether "you" are the students who make up the rest of our community of learners, or a unique individual brimming with stories to tell and a perspective to add. Whether "you" are one of the three or so devoted readers of my blog, or someone in one of the dozens of random countries who just happened to come across it, and inspired me to keep writing. I've come to realize that having people to share your experiences with is a tremendous blessing, and I couldn't have asked for a better crew. Thank you.

There will always be good and evil forces in this world, such is the nature of the beast. I think a point to be learned from this trip is that memorials and remnants of such troubled times do not exist to drown us in our sorrows, or to create a colossal guilt-trip on the world, or even to continually shame those who have done wrong. I think they exist simply to remind us of what happened, of how easily this could happen, and of how vigilant we must remain in our tolerance and understanding of those who are different. I find myself unsettled by sentiments, muttered comments, and ignorant remarks that I might have laughed off before. I find myself less comfortable with small-town ignorance, and life within a safe, little bubble. It may not be much, but it is a start, and it is a difference I can tangibly feel.

There have been wrongdoings and atrocities against groups of people the world over. There have been massacres that we know nothing of, and may never have reason to hear about. There have been other genocides like in Srebrenica that have been overlooked, and that people are still fighting for remembrance of. Maybe we cannot do anything about these now. Maybe it is, obviously, too late for too many. But maybe also, each of these little scars changes us as a human race, and empowers us to be the difference when it matters. Hopefully, we are never faced with such a tribulation. Hopefully, we will be left to change our worlds through our everyday actions. And hopefully, should the occasion arise, we will not be the good people who just stood by. Passion is a beautiful thing, a powerful thing. What could the world be if we were each to follow our own, wholly and completely?

Each moment, we are faced with a choice: the choice to do the easy, the safe, the familiar, or the choice to scale a mountain, kayak an uncomfortable amount of miles, take an internship half a country, or even half a world, away from your nearest friends. It is by choosing these challenges that we grow. It is in choosing to embark upon a trip with unclear expectations and a fuzzy destination rather than hopping on the most popular study abroad program with the easiest classes that we truly learn. As my career here at Georgia Tech comes to a close, I can't help but think back to my first prolonged international experience of studying abroad in Spain after my freshman year, and how far I've come since. The things that used to terrify me are now the very same things that bring me such wild and unrestrained excitement. Public transportation systems that used to confuse me to no ends now awe me, and I marvel at their complexity. There is nothing quite as satisfying as navigating the cheapest/sketchiest way to get from point A to point B successfully. While I used to pretend to be asleep to avoid the potential embarrassment of having to start a conversation in a weird mash of two thick accents or even two entirely different languages, I now long to hear peoples' stories, in whatever melodic lilt they come out in. The homesickness that once incapacitated me and kept me up until all hours of the night has given way to an unquenchable thirst to see new places, and to understand how the rest of the world lives. These days, "home" means the Atlanta airport, and no longer the final destinations of houses or farms or couches that might be waiting behind it.

So what did I learn? I learned of a place called the "Balkans", from a word that means "chain of wooded mountains", formerly known as the Republic of Yugoslavia. I learned of a war fought within my lifetime, and upon my own generation. I learned that I actually enjoy backpacking, and lugging thirty or so pounds up a rugged path, for whatever reason. I learned that I am a slow-and-steady kayaker, more content with being on the water than mastering it. I learned that there are incredible people within my own university that I have yet to meet, who will shape my life in ways they may never know. Most importantly, I learned to accept that some questions have no answers, and sometimes, you can only ask.

PS - For a more detailed (aka wordier) account of our trip, the rest of my blogs are available at alliesadventuresabroad.wordpress.com

Answering the Unanswerable

Balkans. I keep finding myself forgetting the whole thing even happened. Like it was an exceedingly long dream that I have just recently woke from. I LOVE adventure and Balkans was one HELLUVA adventure (I can say Helluva in a blog post if it's in our fight song, right?) and one I absolutely will never forget.

What I will take away from ASK Balkans comes from something David Knobbe says frequently. "It's not your experiences you learn from, but rather how you think about your experiences". I think this is absolutely true and something that is easy to take for granted. For instance, I'm the kind of person who only asks "Whats next?". I'm absolutely inept at reflecting and I would absolutely call it my greatest weakness. But there is something valuable about it. As they say, "Those who do not study history are doomed to repeat it.". I think this is true of our daily lives as well. We should study our own past so as to learn and grow from our experiences.

What? - Balkans. Trip around the former-Yugoslavia only about 24 hours after graduating. Mountains. Seas. Horses. Floods. History. Easy, NEXT.

So what? - Balkans for me was yet another adventure. Another avenue for me to expand my realm of experience. I was interested in seeing another mindset, another attitude for exploring life and I am pleased to say I got to have that experience. Add it to the list along with the German, Aussie, and Kiwi lifestyles. I was able to see a region torn apart by war and still struggling to sew together the peaces, with new boundaries, new stitch-lines to show. This trip has taught me about privilege, about hatred, and about loss. I've learned more about poverty, death, and the importance of family.

Now what? - I'm going to lead my life as one that could end any day. I'm going to challenge my own prejudices about others. I'm going to continue to adventure: to climb peaks, cross seas, and navigate dangerous rivers. I'm going to spend more time with my family and treasure the time I have on this earth. I'm going to find the things that make me happy and avoid the things that don't.

To everyone on the group, it was an absolutely pleasure to get to know you. This was one of my first experiences with such a varied group of President's Scholars and really a nice change of pace to be once again spending time with much younger members of the PS family. Thank you all for letting me be a part of your adventure! I hope to see you all around ORGT soon!

Andrew Warren

Like Bringing Guests Into My Home for the First Time

Before I begin my blog post, I would like to graciously thank quite a few people...

David Knobbe, director at Outdoor Recreation Georgia Tech (ORGT), for his enormous contributions to the success of our trip. When the unexpected stopped us in our tracks - from airlines failing to deliver baggage to tragic floods demolishing bridges and our floating river hostel – David served as an outstandingly calm and collected  leader and planner as we re-organized to adjust to circumstances. Thank you David!

Ahsan Khan, expedition leader at ORGT, for joining our trip voluntarily and assisting David through every startling circumstance while also making sure everyone was safe at all times. Thank you Ahsan!

Chaffee Viets, director of the President's Scholarship Program, for giving me the amazing opportunity to lead what must have been the best group of students and professors to bring to the Balkans. ASK Balkans 2014, and hopefully for more years in the future! 

Hugh Crawford and Loren Williams, professors at Georgia Tech in literature and biochemistry respectively, for being with us throughout the planning process not only providing insightful contributions to our intellectual conversations throughout the semester and in hostels late at night but also providing hilarious remarks at just the right moments in carpools and at the dinner table. You guys are great and we will not pretend to not know you in public!

And finally, the ASK Balkans scholars... all of you contributed to the trip and were not "tourists" but curious and thoughtful travelers! Also, you amazed our adults with your strength and minimal whining through every bump in the road. I really hope all of you see this trip as a highlight of the GT experience.

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Much like the purpose of the ASK program, I’m currently struggling with a question: how will you experience ASK Balkans vicariously through this blog post?

Na žalost, you can’t.

There is, perhaps luckily, no possibility of squeezing ASK Balkans in one blog post. To se razume.

But what you can do is be inspired by what our group did: spend five months extensively studying the rich social and cultural history of a unique region of the world to make our travels an eye-opening and reflective experience, all while actively planning through weekly meetings the day-to-day substantial itineraries for twenty-five people, then allow the hard work to cultivate an awe-inspiring two weeks for everyone.

A Three Year Effort

How it all began

Last fall, Chaffee, our director at the President’s Scholarship Program whom we scholars fondly refer to by first name, approached me asking if I would be interested in leading a group of students and professors in a full-blown wilderness adventure and rich, academic study of Croatia, Bosnia, and Serbia. It would be called: Academic Search for Knowledge (ASK) Balkans.*dramatic interpretation

Coming from a Serbian family, I had the ability to translate the language fluently and connect Georgia Tech to the Balkans… so sure – why not?

The ASK program had been a work in progress for years due legislative barriers, so I was a little scared that ASK Balkans would not come to fruition. But as Georgia entered another snowless December Chaffee reminded me: over winter break, are you going to start prepping materials and considering which professors to nominate as faculty guides?

ASK Balkans became real. I exploded with joy. Then survived to lead – and translate for – an amazing trip.

My New Pair of Eyes

The highlights of my ASK Balkans experience

The wise David Knobbe reminded us throughout our trip: 

“People do not learn from experience, they learn from reflecting on experience.”

The wise Billiee Pendleton-Parker also offered a piece of wise advice that has become my new favorite travel quote (thanks Billiee!):

"The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes."

Marcel Proust

And with these wise words I am inspired to reflect on the experiences that have transformed me, below.

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Entering Croatia and being surprised that it totally felt like home... red tiled roofs, hatchbacks, cigarette smoke, and imperfectly trimmed grass. Communist-era cement block apartments juxtaposed with intricate moldings in early modern period Austro Hungarian private homes… a ubiquitous trait of the west Balkans! The only difference being really, pointy Catholic steeples instead of Orthodox domes.

Since I first came to Serbia in 1998, I have always come back every few years. Due to the tension caused by war, I never visited Croatia and thus it became a land of mystery. Upon arriving in Zagreb I expected a culture shock, a weird sense of misbelonging… however, I experienced quite the opposite. 

BBC documentaries and PBS in-depth investigations of the history of war painted for me the image of two countries on opposite sides of the black-and-white cookie. It startled me to discover that these differences were completely unknown to the naked eye and the commonalities left me pondering how such serious bloodshed came between related social cultures.

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Totally redefining my Americanized perspective of occupation and career... something that struck me about our two weeks is that I can’t recall meeting a single person with what we will call a “classic American” career path and vision for work.  We met so many characters with arguably interesting lives… from fireman who travel to mountain huts by weekend to ex-NGO presidents looking to found organic farms.

To be fair, the Balkans unemployment situation is much more difficult than that of the United States, but most characters did not seem unhappy about their random career tragectories. In fact they became infinitely more interesting and rewarding.

As an aspiring entrepreneur I was finding myself in Georgia Tech’s hard hustle culture needing to hurry, seeing the idea perpetuated that jumping in now is the only way to have success later - but there is no set path. What’s preventing me from taking a semester off to research sustainable farming practices by living and working on a farm in Bosnia?

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Admitting I lied about my origin because I feared rejection... as a warning from relatives that made sense given recent history, I was told in Croatia to simply “white lie” and explain my ability to speak Croatian by my Croatian parents from Zagreb who later moved to America, hence my American accent. 

This, of course, is not my parent’s actual history. However, as we traveled through Croatia, it felt safer for me to say that my parents were from Zagreb rather than their actual origins. I feared I would be rejected in Croatia for being Serbian, though the war ended about twenty years prior. 

Then suddenly: Murphy’s Law. 

At a lovely three course dinner at a Skradin hotel after rigorous hiking through Paklenica, Chaffee was practicing Croatian with Tin and Filip, our Croatian kayaking guides for an adventure to begin the following morning. When he ordered a bijela kafa, Tin and Filip corrected him and said that in Croatia it’s called a kava.

 

Chaffee then pointed at me and said, “But that’s what she taught me.”

The kayaking guides replied, “But that’s what Serbians say.” *For the record, these are really funny and kind-hearted dudes 

My cover was blown. But not really: “It’s just my American accent!”

Later, Chaffee reminded me that there was no need to lie about where I am from, but I insisted I just wanted to play it safe.

On the water the next day, our whole group grew to like and trust our guides. By the time we came to Hotel Maestral on Prvic Luka, I had so many good interactions with Croatians that I became completely lost and had to ask myself: how could Croatians and Serbians possibly hate each other? 

After a delicious pasta and rum ice cream our group split into smaller groups for reflection. I had the luck of sitting with Tin, Filip, Chaffee, and others from our group. Still dumbfounded by my earlier question, I descended into a moment of utter vulnerability in which I feared Tin and Filip would hate me forever: I revealed that I lied about being Croatian and was in fact Serbian. I also revealed that I had been doing so my entire time in Croatia out of fear of rejection and according to my parents, safety. But I could not believe how such similar cultures could hate each other. I simply had to blow my cover. 

Chaffee was proud. And Tin and Filip didn’t hate me – they actually seemed to appreciate my utter honesty and a very personal account of the answer to my question followed.

I seriously regret lying about my origins. I let go of the opportunity to break cultural barriers due to my own insecurities. ASK Balkans has taught me that bridging gaps between cultures the BBC illustrates as enemies begins with just a little bravery and personal risk – which, if you look more closely, isn’t that how all social progress is made?

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Seeing the ASK Balkans group chow down on ham soup by David Knobbe… there was a moment at Hostel City Center in Sarajevo where I felt infinitely happy. As I looked around and saw everyone eating a delicious Knobbe creation after exploring Sarajevo in cold and rain, I realized how much I appreciate the entire ASK Balkans group and how much I would miss them when the trip was over. 

Seeing and experiencing culture was amazing, but the relationships I formed on the trip with my PS family, our professors Hugh Crawford and Loren Williams, our ORGT staff David and Ahsan, and Chaffee were even more outstanding. I am terrible at explaining these kinds of feelings in words, but I will fondly remember – and can’t wait to see again – everyone on our trip.

For Fondly Recounting at ASK Balkans Reunions

We had quite the trip, eh?

- climbed a 13th century Croatian castle

- met Tom, Boris, and the fluffiest dog in the world aka Seka

- climbed 2km to the top of Paklenica, Buljma (or Team Summit)

- slept in the Struge mountain hut that soldiers slept in

- stood meters away from land mines from wars past

- kayaked 40 miles in the Adriatic, including through a sea storm

- got featured in a local Croatian newspaper

- slept across from Diocletian's palace

- played with wild Bosnian horses

- lowered a tent pole for an hour and a half in a Bosnian hotel

- invaded Sarajevo coffee shops

- saw how Bosnia’s 1984 Olympic grounds for celebration became haunting relics of war

- got 25 free mini carpets for buying so many drug rugs from a craftsman in Sarajevo

- witnessed 1st hand the effects of the worst flood in Balkans recorded history

- (briefly) hiked a 6th century Serbian fortress, Kalegmegdan

- ate our yearly allowance of bread, cheese, and salami

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Needless to say, after hiking, roadtripping, kayaking, and flying across Croatia, Bosnia, and Serbia we came closer to answering how the physical environment and both ancient and modern history accumulated to cultural interactions in the former Yugoslavia. But have the wisdom to say we cannot fully answer this question in six months – that will be determined and built upon by ASK Balkans trips for years to come!

ASK Balkans Final Reflection

In my time at Georgia Tech, I have been fortunate to participate in a wide array of programs.  I have researched abroad, participated in multiple study abroad programs, and partaken in leadership programs through the President's Scholarship Program.  In looking back at my time with ASK Balkans, I can definitively state that it was one of the most meaningful and important programs I have been involved in during my time at Georgia Tech.

What made the ASK Balkans program so distinct was how the program offerings varied depending on how much effort each participant decided to put in.  What I enjoyed about the structure of the program was how our entire group met for a semester to discuss the formulation of our ASK question before we even left Atlanta.  Between each weekly meeting, we were each asked to do our own independent research into some aspect of the Balkans and then present this information on the group blog.  At each meeting, we would discuss our findings and use this data to help formulate a question that our group would answer on the field in the Balkans.  I really enjoyed doing the independent research.  I learned about the incredible history of the region and how war has been a part of the land since prehistory.  I learned about the interesting geography of the region and how the landscape has affected the way of life for the various people groups.  I learned about the food, the weather, and the way of life.  I enjoyed being able to look up areas that I found interesting as opposed to having prescribed research topics that I might not enjoy as much.  Though most of our group meetings devolved to talking about logistics every week, we were still able to share items we researched with the group and learn from one another.  Having this knowledge beforehand proved invaluable once we actually made it to the region.  Whereas in other study abroad programs I have been on where you start learning about the region once you arrive there, this program helped prepare students long before.

Another part of the trip that I greatly appreciated was how a majority of the trip was student planned and student led.  In Atlanta, this helped serve as a preparation tool for students who had never been abroad before.  We learned how to navigate cities without even stepping a foot in them.  On the ground in the Balkans, we were able to serve as leaders for the day or as leaders for a certain portion of our planned city.  I was very proud to see each and everyone on the trip step up at some point and take ownership for a portion of the program.  It was very clear that everyone was invested in the program, and that was one of the key elements which I feel made the trip such a success.  Having us help to plan the entire trip meant that everyone felt like they were truly a part of the team.  In other programs, the entire itinerary is already planned for the students, and many students check out if they are disinterested in a certain activity or region.  However, this was certainly not the case for us!

Our group also added alot of value to the program.  As I mentioned during our final reflection, I was very surprised when I first read the group of names of students selected to go on the program.  I thought, 'what a very different, interesting group of people!'  I still stand by that thought.  Each of us had very different interests and brought very different personalities to the group dynamic.  There were no cliques or definitive groups of friends already existing (besides Andy and Rachel and the inter-year friendships).  I think this allowed us a blank canvas on which our group could begin.  Many individuals in the group did not know 1+ people in the rest of the group, so this allowed for new and organic friendships to be formed during the trip.

One commonality between everyone who attended the trip was that we each put in a lot of effort to make sure the trip succeeded.  I did not witness one person who gave up or lost interest in the focus of the program (which is only too common in other programs that I have participated in).  Every person in the group was interested in learning more and having a better understanding of the people who we were learning about.  This is the one thing that I enjoyed most about our group.  I truly enjoy being around intellectual people who never want to stop learning about the world around them....

....Which leads me to my final point: the biggest thing I got out of the ASK Balkans program.  The biggest thing I got out of the program was how to continuously learn about the world around you even after graduation.  It is ever-so-easy to convince yourself that once you graduate from college, you are finished with your role as student and you don't need to continue learning.  After so many years of learning, why not finally put those skills to use?  WRONG!  Graduation will never give you an excuse to stop learning.  The ASK Balkans program was all about having a group of students develop their own questions and do their own research on a region and formulate their own hypotheses.  We may have gotten some assistance from faculty and staff, but a large majority of this was all done by us.  Looking back at the trip, I am so thankful I was able to participate.  This trip showed me that I have the capacity to continue learning about the world around me everyday, all I have to do is continue ASKing questions.  I think now that the trip is finished, I have finally come to understand the purpose - and I think it is a beautiful thing.

If you are a student reading this and you are considering if you should partake in an ASK program, I have but one thing for you to consider.  What are your objectives?  If you are seeking to take the same engineering classes in a different country, look at a study abroad program.  However, if you are truly seeking to learn about a particular region, look at the ASK program.  Study abroad programs are just that - you and your friends studying hard while in a foreign country; however, an ASK trip is an opportunity to truly learn abroad and be able to immerse yourself in the region.

Thanks so much to Chaffee, Angela, David, Loren, Hugh, and all of the students who were on the trip.  This truly was the trip of a lifetime!!!

Frederick Grimm

Ask Balkans – Final Reflection

How was your trip? Since I got back, I have been ASKed this question more times than I can count and I still find myself really struggling to answer it. I can explain the places we saw and the people we met but the reflection aspect added a whole new element that I can’t explain. It has been almost three weeks and I still find myself thinking about the trip all the time. More than that, I feel that I learn something new about my experience each time that I reflect. Instead of explaining the entirety of the trip, I’d like to focus on a couple specific stories from the trip and explain how I was able to learn from them.

Creating a Moment in Paklenica

During the first part of our trip, we backpacked through a national park on the Croatian coast called Paklenica National Park. Along the hike, the plan was to have freeze-dry meals but, through a crazy turn of events, our fuel was lost and we were forced to improvise. The group decided to continue with an alternate hike and we made our way to a cabin called Stuge, armed with the food we had leftover from a previous grocery store trip. The food consisted of bread, salami, cheese, these cans of some sort of meat paste with a rooster on the front, a Croatian peanut butter substitute called Kikiriki, and, last but certainly not least, a couple packets of dry hot chocolate mix. After a long hike up and through the Buljma Pass we sat down to enjoy our abnormal feast. As we ate, I remember the overwhelming sense of community and the bond that we developed over a few short days. Before I knew it, everything but the Kikiriki and Rooster Paste was finished and we moved on to the final course of our exquisite meal, the hot chocolate mix. The picture below explains it all and I can tell you that Swiss Mix was able to follow through on its company slogan to “Create a Moment.” Through this I learned that amazing experiences don’t require perfect circumstances.  We made the best out of what options we had and, because everyone had a great attitude, we were able to enjoy what could be seen as an unfortunate situation. As a planning oriented type A person, being able to respond to quick change in plans was a valuable experience for me and it really got me in the mindset to try enjoy every single second of the trip. This attitude is something I would hope to carry with me in the future along with my love for dried hot chocolate mix.

Renovations in Prvic Luka, dinner in Split, and the ice cream shop in Livno

During the sea kayaking part of the trip we stayed on a small island off the Coast of Croatia called Prvic Luka. While we were there, the town was doing preparations for the big tourist season that would start a couple weeks after we left.  Walking through the central road in Prvic Luka one morning I got the opportunity to watch all of the construction and see these piles of old tile. It was amazing to see how much time that the town put into making the island look nice for tourists and it reflected how much pride the locals had in making their home look perfect. This feeling of pride was reiterated when the manager of the hotel spoke to us each night and explained what we would be having for dinner. He had a certain virtuoso in his speech that was amazing to watch and really got you excited for the food you were about to enjoy.  This carried on through Spilt at a restaurant that was recommended to us. When we got there the place was packed with people.  The lady at the front looked like she owned the restaurant and as soon as we walked up she started to rearrange tables to make room for us. I felt like we were the late unannounced arrivals to Thanksgiving dinner but she took on a very motherly role and made sure that we felt at home. The people next to us began offering us food and making recommendations for what we should order.  The entire experience was amazing and reflected this whole culture that is completely different than the United States. Finally, one night in Livno, a bunch of us stopped in a small ice cream shop.  The man behind the counter didn't speak English and in the confusion of the entire episode the man said something to me that I didn't understand. Before thinking about it I responded by pointing to what I wanted and that’s when Chaffee stopped me and told me that the man was just saying good evening and welcoming me to the store. At this point I felt completely embarrassed but it was a good learning opportunity. I learned that, especially in a situation where you don’t speak the language, it’s important be patient and observant. Throughout all three of these experiences, I was able to connect with people and learn by seeing first hand what was important to them. In not rushing through what could have been a basic financial transaction for food, I was able to gain a memorable experience that in my opinion was way more important than food itself.

Olympic Track in Sarajevo

Due to the weather conditions and flooding we spent an extra few days in Sarajevo and this provided us with the opportunity to see the 1984 Olympic Bobsled Track.  The track was very symbolic of Sarajevo in many ways. Sarajevo was selected for the 1984 Olympics because it represented an area where multiple religious groups lived together peacefully. This erupted in 1991 with the siege of Sarajevo and the damage to the bobsled course reflected the destruction that occurred in the city. The truly amazing part was that it began snowing while we were there and as the snow covered the track the fact that the Olympics happened here became more real. In exploring the area, we actually got the opportunity to walk down the track and see how it was used as a military position during the siege.  It was eye-opening that in 7 years the track was able to see that much change. The juxtaposition between peace and war reflected how quickly a bond between diverse groups can deteriorate and conflict can arise. After seeing the destruction, it was easy to immediately try to place blame on a group and say that one side is right and the other side is wrong. What I've learned in the past couple of weeks is that there isn't necessarily a right and wrong side to the conflict and I can’t always go into a problem looking for a clear answer. As an engineer, I've almost always faced clear problems with reachable solutions and thus I’ve always tried to find the most efficient solution as quickly as possible. In the real world, decisions aren't like that and trying to come up with a quick easy answer isn’t the right way to do it. Sometimes discussing a problem and working toward an answer is more important than the answer itself.

So… In the wise words of David Knobbe, “Now What?” To answer your question directly, I have no absolutely no idea, but I’m not nearly as concerned about that as I used to be. For me it was learning that I don’t necessarily need a “now what?” and instead just need to take what I learned and apply it to whatever happens next. Through the Ask Balkans trip, I was able to learn so much about the region, the culture, and the conflicts. In doing that, I made some great friends and was able to learn a little about myself along the way. The trip has changed me for the better and I can’t thank everyone involved enough.  Y’all are seriously awesome and father would definitely approve.

25 Quick Messages

Upon considering this blog post, I have come to a cross roads. I can either a) write an academically enlightening reflection that solidifies concepts we all experienced together as American tourists abroad or b) reflect on the unique components of our trip that made it our unique ASK Balkans trip. 


I will briefly do both.


a) You were there. I was there. You learned things. I learned things. Oh, the places we'll go.


b) Now, the extra important stuff! As a group you all were so incredibly wonderful and expressive, it has left me completely baffled.  I have never met so many wonderful people in such a short time and had it mean so incredibly much to me.  And just like someone said on the last night--sorry someone for not remembering who you are--(and I'm paraphrasing) we're a pack of weirdoes no one puts together for commonalities, but for how unique we all were as individuals. So now, for everyone on the trip--and for anyone who wasn't--here is a quick break down of the 25 memories that made my trip a once in a lifetime experience.

KYLE
When everything seemed crazy and stressful and downright ridiculous--for example me struggling to order pizza as if I had the burden of the entire world on my shoulders in Bosnia--you were the "it's okay, let's have a good time" guy.  Anytime things got difficult, you maintained a constant sense of fun and humor that was contagious to me and everyone around you. 

TREY (and Lara)
Watching you and Lara--in matching hats and shirts--kayak on the first day made me laugh harder than almost anything on the trip.  Hearing you comment on the experience in your humorous way was a complete joy and something I will always remember. (I would also argue that the streets of Sarajevo benefitted from our loud accented dialogue and that this contribution was deeply undervalued. I will be mentioning this to management.)

CHANDLER
I don't have a specific memory for you on this trip because everything you did was so extraordinary and critical.  I have never been so proud of a member of my PS class for all they've accomplished and it was clear how much ORGT and this group meant to you. Thank you for all of your hard work.

PETER
You are incredibly intelligent and have a unique stance on the world unlike anyone I've known. Discussing everything from GT to all things political with you was by far the best way to spend car rides and long dinners. You really helped me grow beyond my point of view and I look forward to seeing all that summer does for you.

NICOLE
Anytime anything remotely unusual or dramatic happened on the trip, I would always look at your eyebrows to decide how to react. You constantly made these hilarious and charming faces that reflected how at ease you were with whatever was going to happen. Getting to know you more was a sincere pleasure and something I hope we can continue well into the rest of our PS years together!

RACHEL
Confession: for the entirety of our backpacking trip, I frequently would scoot my way next to you just to hear you laugh and see you smile--because it always made me feel better. If I had to decide who had the best time on the trip, I would guess it was you. Constantly laughing and making the best of even the toughest times, I really looked to you to pick me up when I was down. Thank you for being so positive.

CLAIRE
My best memories of you all come from the incredible amount of work you put into our small group. I felt more at ease each and every time we met. (Turns out there is a lot to do in Livno!) How engaged you were with our trip and our success was really inspirational and so appreciated.

ANDREW
I will NEVER understand your interest in kayaking.  I am more likely to take up taxidermy in the near future than continue my career as a kayaker.  But your interest and skill with such a dreadful sport was to me very admirable.  You were a great leader and fun to hang out with.  Even in a boat.

PARKER
Y'know, cupcake... joking around with you at our meetings all semester was ridiculously fun.  Knowing I had a friend on the trip before we even started was really comforting and I cannot wait to become an official, honorary, not-real, but totally legitimate, band member in the fall.

LARA
Your thoughts and contributions--and I really do mean all of them--were lovely.  Everything you said from comments on logistics to grande perceptions on our group as a whole really made me think beyond the moment and into the "so what?" Your kindness and poise was a model for me and many on the trip--leading by example doesn't even begin to describe your role.

ANDY
It is rare and concerning when two people walk into a room someone says, "Oh no, I hadn't thought about this pairing." You're ridiculous. You know you're the best. That's all I'm saying. Stop begging for compliments. Seriously, Andy. Stop.

FREDWARD
I commend you on seriously doing your homework for this trip. Watching you run around explaining everything from historical nuances to cultural traditions was educating and enjoyable. I hope you enjoy your last semester at Tech and keep running around traveling. The global community could use more Americans like you.

ALLIE
My friend. My roommate. My better half. My name-stealer. You were always sarcastic and funny in the most positive of ways. Listening to you chat it up with Croatians before we started sea kayaking was hilarious and your hanging out with us freshmen was so appreciated. See you in the fall!

BEN
You were the hysterical footnote to EVERYTHING that happened on this trip.  From hiking, to playing with dogs, to running around in the city--you always had some completely bizarre and heart-warming take on everything around you.  I still may not totally get your sense of humor--how you hurt your leg in September still baffles me--but I'm looking forward to finding out more.

KELSEY
The day at the ropes course I had NO clue who you were.  Wasn't sure if you were going on the trip? Maybe worked for ORGT?  Or you were just really friendly?  And in all honesty, it took me until Bosnia to really get to know you.  But the last night we were in Sarajevo, chatting in our small group of three and passing bread back and forth I realized how incredibly wonderful and sweet you were.  You had thought about everyone and everything on the trip more deeply than most would bother and your compassion for me meant more than I could explain.  Proud to know we're from the same place and hoping I see you back in Atlanta!

ANGELA 
You deserve a massive round of applause for how much you contributed to this group and this trip. Meeting you our first day of planning and hearing just the surface of everything you were excited to teach and experience with us made me realize just how deeply you cared about each and every one of us getting a wonderful experience those two weeks.  And that kind of caring just cannot be appreciated enough.  Thank you so much again and again for everything you've done for me and the other 23 amazing people on this trip.

HUGH
I knew I was your favorite. I promise I won't tell anyone, but I knew. Thank you for contributing your time, dry wit, and controversial opinions to our travels.  But above all else, thank you for continually looking out for my Cinnabon needs.  Few people, let alone a professor, know the importance of a good Cinnabon.

PRESTON
Although I will likely never get back in a kayak, one of the few things that MIGHT convince me is the opportunity to once again recount the first five Harry Potter books detail-by-detail, sing every Disney song we can think of, and awkwardly hum through a bunch of indie rock with you.  I promise to hunt you and Nick Selby--do you know him?--down in Home Park and hang out like we totally know each other.

LAUREN
I learned more from you than I have ever learned from any professor--even the ones I've actually had a class with.  Thank you for being so engaged and so giving of yourself throughout this entire trip.  And again thank you for going above and beyond--and letting me borrow your backpack!!!

AHSAN
You were the best addition to this trip anyone could have ever possibly asked for. Your interest in getting to know everyone really made a sense of community evolve early on in our travels and I firmly believe you were the ORGT glue that kept everything together. Plus, my sister thinks you're really nice. So that counts for something.

VIRGINIA
You win the award for most intellectual and engaged.  Anytime there was a discussion to be had or something to be learned, you were the one with important and horizon-expanding questions.  I looked to you for guidance on what to do with my time abroad and am much better off for it.  You really the made the most of time in such a unique part of the world and by following your lead, I had that chance too. Cannot wait to be rooming with you next year and I hope Texas is wonderful.

SAVANNAH
You're an amazing, beautiful, gifted, insightful, funny, smiley, adorable human being. You know what you did. I am lucky to have you as a friend and a teammate. Thank you for absolutely everything. I mean that most sincerely.

(ALI
I counted this list like a million times and could not figure out who the 25th person was I was leaving out. So yeah, there was also me.)

KNOBBE
I respect and admire what you do not just for a living, but with your life.  Hearing your stories got me excited not about just the Balkans, but about the world.  Knowing everything you have done and seen makes me incredibly excited for the rest of my challenges with Tech (and ORGT if I'm lucky).  Thank you for your incredible leadership and spirit.

PAPA CHAY
Few people can put up with my shenanigans like you do.  Thank you for not just this trip, but all of the support, hope, and love you have given me in the past year.  As always, I'll do my best to make you proud.  Again, thank you so so much.


I hope everyone, in ASK Balkans and everywhere else, has an amazing summer.  As always... Go Jackets!

Oh the People You'll See!

       When I start to reflect on all of the experiences I had over the course of the ASK Balkans trip, my mind always wanders back to the incredible group of people that accompanied me. One thing that I've discovered over these past few years is that the people who surround you can either enhance your experiences or dampen the potential impact. This trip was no exception. I was surrounded by people who were just as eager to learn about other cultures as I was, helping to fuel my excitement and desire to figure out what secrets these three countries had.

       It wasn't until we got to our hotel in Croatia that I realized that the genuineness and kindness characteristic to our group would also be visible in the people that we interacted with in the different cities. I tend to pay more attention to the people rather than the landscape, so the first thing I noticed was how hospitable and patient the hotel receptionists were in Croatia. This attitude only continued when we met Phillip and Tin. They shared so much of their culture with us and allowed a few of us to impart some knowledge on how to be a “steady mobbin’ gangsta.” Their sense of humor and friendliness are two things that stand out to me the most. When we got to the island, the accommodating behavior only continued to become stronger and stronger, as was the case with the restaurants we visited, the stores we shopped at, and the hostels we stayed in.

And that was what became such an integral part for me on the trip. The people. I know this is completely opposite from what our ASK question was aimed toward, and it doesn't exactly answer how the landscape of the Balkans region played a role in its history and conflict. However, I feel that the feelings I experienced and the people I spoke with taught me so much more than what the museums and landscapes could ever teach me. They taught me that at the end of the day, regardless of our language or culture, we are all human, and we are all much more similar to one another than we realize. Speaking with an old man at a carpet store in Sarajevo showed me that we all want to be able to support our loved ones financially, leading the man to work every day as often as he could. Going to a bar and meeting a Bosnian boy who was celebrating his high school graduation made me realize that we all rejoice over accomplishments and want to revel in the moment. Walking around Livno at midnight with a young, adventurous boy listening to him throw out tons of juicy, maybe slightly biased information about his small town made me see that we all yearn for adventure and have a little bit of rebellion in us, but friendship is still something that we will always seek.

      It was these interactions that helped to shape my opinion on the Balkans region, and my conclusion is this: our similarities should be equally as important as our differences. It’s easy to go to another country and try to pick out the different types of food, accents, clothing, and even skin colors. However, when was the last time you went to another country and tried to connect with someone foreign on a more personal level? I’m not implying that you should take them out to dinner and ask about their entire life story. I’m not even suggesting that you have to speak directly to them. My point is that we should be able to look at people and instead of thinking about how different we are from them, try to focus on how similar we are. As a young woman in America struggling with the opinions that other people have of me, I find comfort in knowing that a 19 year old Serbian woman 5,000 miles across the world is probably struggling with the same exact thing. And has the same insecurities as I do. And the same love for music, granted it might not be the same type, but hopefully you see my point.

       This trip allowed me to immerse myself in 3 separate cultures, and while it sounds strange, in each setting, I managed to find some comfort in making it feel like it was a home for me. I can say that without a shadow of a doubt that I am not the same person that stepped onto the plane May 4^th. I have a new found appreciation for the world and, more importantly, the people around me. This trip will be something that I remember for the rest of my life, and I’m so happy that the group of people I shared it with will always be a part of this incredible memory.

Looking back...

Wow.  It’s crazy looking back on our whirlwind adventure through the Balkans now, three weeks after the trip’s conclusion.  It seems so long ago, but really it’s only three weeks behind us.  

But I don’t believe that this trip will ever truly be behind us.  Everything we experienced on this trip impacted us in some way, and we are now changed.  We were a diverse group in most every sense – age, gender, major, interests, personalities, etc. – but we came together for an unforgettable adventure and the results were off the charts.  We grew closer as the trip progressed; as we learned each other’s strengths, we worked together more effectively.  And the better we worked together, the better we played together.  I loved making new friends and getting to know old friends better – and I wished we didn’t have to part ways for the summer at the end of the trip.

Looking back now, I often wish I was back there, admiring the stunning view from the top of the peak Sveto Brdo in Paklenica with Team Summit, or enjoying the rolls of the waves under my kayak and the warmth of the Mediterranean sun on my face.  The beauty of the landscape was surreal.

But there was also depth to this beauty.  The culture of the people of Croatia, Bosnia, and Serbia is so rich, but so tainted with conflict.  We witnessed hints of war upon encountering warning signs for land mines in the national park, but were slapped in the face with the reality of the situation in Sarajevo, where evidence of war constantly surrounded us.  Bullet holes in buildings; graveyards in parks; Sarajevo roses plastered on the street; the 1984 Olympic bobsled track neglected, graffitied, and filled with sniper holes; and the Olympic skiing site still filled with land mines to this day – all of this destruction surrounding us gave weight to the reality of the situation.  It is one thing to read about the history, but completely another to witness it.

What, so what, now what?  How will we use this new pair of eyes now that we’ve completed ASK Balkans?  

This prompt applies to so many aspects of the trip.  Here we go:

What? Travel

So what?  This trip was filled with new experiences.  I’d never been to this region before, never backpacked or sea kayaked before, never traveled in a group this large before, etc.

Now what?  Now it’s time to seek out more new experiences.  Push your boundaries, discover new things about yourself, learn from others.  There is always something new out there to learn or experience.

What? Conflict

So what?  We witnessed evidence of war that took place during our lifetime, conflict that is still being resolved.

Now what?  What is the root of conflict?  How can it be stopped?  At the root of all conflict is difference.  Someone believes one thing, someone believes something else, and they both think they’re right or even superior.  Maybe tolerance could solve this issue, maybe understanding, maybe education – probably a combination?  Preventing conflicts is now the issue on the table.

And finally,

What IS Balkans?

Although there is no way we learned everything about the Balkans in two weeks of being there, we have a much better idea on how to start to answer this question.  I don’t quite think Balkans is everything on Trey’s powerpoint as the Belgrade group had imagined, but we can now begin to formulate our own answers to this question.  

Balkans is beautiful.  Balkans is adventure.  Balkans is history, conflict, and growth.  Balkans is kava, cevapi, and kremsnita.  Balkans is Boris, Tin, and Philip.  And Balkans is now a bit of each of us :)

I miss you guys.  Hope you all are having wonderful summers, and I can’t wait for our reunion in the fall :)