I just had a very eye-opening conversation with one of my
co-workers, “Lily.” Lily grew up in
Kosovo and was deported to Macedonia during the war in 1998 and moved to the
U.S. in 1999 through a U.S. government program. She still lives here but goes
back to visit every year- she gets incredibly homesick for her country.
I must say, it is one thing to read all about the Kosovo War
on PBS.org but quite another to meet and talk to someone who survived such
conflict firsthand.
When Lily talks about Kosovo, I witness such pride in her
Albanian roots and nationality. She wishes that Kosovo were a part of Albania
but is glad they are not a part of Serbia (even if Serbia does not recognize
this fact). She says now it is safe and there is no visible conflict, but
day-to-day interactions can still be awkward. Albanians very much stick to
their areas; as a result she has never really traveled anywhere else in the
Balkans besides Kosovo and Albania. Just the other day on vacation in the Smoky
Mountains, Lily met a young Serbian woman who was renting her cabins. When she
found out that Lily was Albanian, she immediately grew red and looked
embarrassed. The brutality inflicted upon Kosovo was only 15 years ago- people
still remember.
Having lived through experiences like Lily did made her
stronger, she says. She is a lot more focused on the big picture and
understanding tough decisions need to be made.
Whether or not it was good that the UN stuck to purely aerial conflict
is up for debate. Because the Serbians were aware they were going to get bombed
out of Kosovo in a short amount of time, they took advantage of that time to
make a sort of last-ditch effort that included even worse brutality and mass
killings than they had been doing up to that point. Since they knew they were
going to lose it all anyway, they killed with reckless abandon. This really
bothers Lily, but she also recognizes that if we had sent in ground troops, the
battle would have probably been a lot longer and might have ultimately ended up
in more deaths. She is glad the conflict was resolved quickly but saddened at
the price Kosovo had to pay.
One thing that bothers Lily is how all of the rich ancient
history associated with the Balkans gets completely lost in light of the last
100 years with conflict and socialism. She feels that all of the recent history
overshadows the deep cultural significance of her home country. Her name, for
instance, was the name of the Illyerian queen in 280 B.C.!! ! If you ever
travel to Albania, she recommends spending time on their beautiful beaches
(mountains in the background) and exploring Durres, a modern city with a huge
ancient structure in the center.
Advice from Lily includes: Given our intervention in the
Kosovo War, people in Serbia may not be so thrilled about Americans, so don’t necessarily
broadcast that you are proud to be an American in Belgrade. In general,
however, the Balkans are quickly Westernizing and are embracing tourism- it is
still such a novelty that they are not sick of tourists just yet, as people in
Italy or Paris probably are. Also when in Sarajevo be sure to try the Burek
(meat/cheese/spinach pie) with plain yogurt. She says that there is such great
variety in food in the Balkans and there are a lot of foods that we have here
but taste so much different (better!) over there because of where the
ingredients are sourced. Will I be sampling Balkan pizza? You bet.
I am so glad I was able to hear such a unique perspective
firsthand before our trip to Lily’s side of the world. Her testament is
beautiful, and she left me with some simple but wise words: “Not all Serbians
are bad.” After experiencing such tragedy in her life, she courageously
developed this mindset that yes, what happened 15 years ago was awful, but she
shouldn’t hate an entire people as a result.
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